In vain have I struggled...

... it will not do. You must allow me to tell you how ardently I hate and despise making stays.

I finished a pair of 18th century stays yesterday. Big woop. I don't know what it is but I feel kind of 'meh' about them.

They're white, linen and cotton, bound with bias tape, boned with plastic bone and zip ties. The pattern is the same as with the Chinoiserie stays, though I arranged the boning a bit differently.

A couple of photos here:

The angle of the straps is a bit off. Might fix that later.

Double, double, toil(e) and trouble...

I've started with the chinoiserie stays. I made a toile, which was ok, so the pieces are now cut and I'm about to start sewing them together and making boning channels. The pattern is from Norah Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines, ca.1780s, and at this point I'm just hoping that they work out. I'm not a big fan of staymaking, but maybe this time it'll go well.
I also made a toile for 1820s stays because I thought that once I'm forcing myself to make stays, I might make two pairs while I'm at it. These stays are also from Corsets and Crinolines, the pattern taken from original corded stays in V&A collections. I still need to buy fabric and cord for these but I'm actually really looking forward to making them.Check back in couple of weeks to hear me take this statement back and curse all stays...
This enthusiasm stems from a pelisse project, the Museum of London pelisse, to be exact. I emailed the museum for more info on the lovely pelisse I mentioned in my previous post and they answered very promptly, with additional pictures of the pelisse before it was put on display! The pictures were very helpful and I'm itching to begin making the pelisse; I only need to find a suitable fabric. The orginal is silk, but I thought I might try thin taffeta, cotton or cotton blend. Still no clue of which colour it should be. Not white or black; maybe strong red or some light pastel.

The to do list, so far...(and loads of photos)

Still no sewing here, except for this folk dress, a feresi it's called, and some ribbon weaving. So, a good time to list the pieces I mean to make when I get my act together again.

First, the pelisse. Or more like, THE PELISSE. It's gorgeous. It needs to be made. It's so ultra-stylish and perfect that I'm a little scared to try my hand in making a replica of it. I saw it in September at the Museum of London and instantly thought "I need to make this for Jane Austen Festival next year". Obviously, the museum has better pictures on its web pages (here) but here are some of mine as well.

I can't decide which colour my pelisse should be. The original is fairly light bluey-grey and it looks very nice but I don't think it's really me.

The trimming is lovely. I can't make out what fastenings this thing uses.

Then there's this spencer, from a museum in Stockholm. It's actually the jacket of a riding habit which I spotted in a book about Regency women, fashion etc. (Persson, Helen: Empirens Döttrar - Kultur och mode under tidigt 1800-tal). I just want the spencer because the braidwork and embroidery are to die for.

I should also make new stays, both 18th century and Regency. I don't really like staymaking, so I'm putting it off, only I can't really make new gowns before I have the stays, so it's a vicious circle. I did finish that black swallow tail jacket, though, and I'm very pleased with it. Here are some pics of it:

The stomacher is pinned on the stays.

I filled out the bum roll :)

The black ribbons are apron strings.

I'm standing on a stool to get a full lenght photo. Black clothes don't photograph well without good lighting. This ensemble has somehow very Dutch or French feel to it (at least to me).

 Lastly, some close-ups of the red frilly spencer.

The front is pinned togehter, and the top is adjusted with the ribbons.

Past 18th century projects revisited

Last weekend I finally had time and energy to take a look at the 18th c. garments I have made so far. I decided to take some proper photos of them all to see how they look and fit. Here are the results.

Pockets, embroidery pattern from Eggiman's Yllebroderier

Yellow stays

Will. Not. Laugh... The silliest piece of clothing I've ever made, the pocket hoops. After the pattern in Waugh's Corsets and Crinolines.

Not much of a bum roll, I think I need to fill this up a bit or make a new one.

A smug expression is essential.

Eeek! Legs! I knitted the stockings; a very plain toe-up model, the yarn is silk-merino blend.

Green taffeta petticoat. Very lightweight, very nice to wear.

The petticoat with a caraco, fichu and ha hat made out of paper yarn. I like this ensemble the best.

Embroidered buttons with a different flower on each of them.

Working that politely disdainful expression. "Out of my way, peasant." I threw on the paniers under the petticoat even though it wasn't cut and measured for them. Still, it kind of works.

Hope my bum looks big enough.

These aren't that wide.

An anglaise-type gown. The taffeta is maybe a wee bit too shiny.

Robe retroussée dans les poches.

The sleeves were inspired by that blue caraco in KCI collection.

Trip to Bath, part 1

 I'm travelling to London in September and I also plan to go the yearly Jane Austen Festival in Bath which conveniently begins during my trip (I confess, I had a cunning plan when I booked the flights...). Of course the event is a perfect excuse for making Regency costumes! So far I've finished short stays and a shift, high waisted petticoat and I'm now embroidering the hem of my first gown. Also, I have a spencer in the making.


                                           

Here the gown has no sleeves or back fastenings yet. I'm trying it on for size. I crocheted the bonnet from paper yarn :)

Some time ago I knitted a lovely Shetland lace shawl. I think it matches the look perfectly.

Oh, and I made a chemisette too. I really like how it turned out. The pattern is from Janet Arnold book.

A little peek of the hem embroidery. The dress seemed to call for some kind of fern pattern.