New year, new spencer

Happy New Year! First day of the year 2013 today, and I'm diligently documenting my first costuming event for the year. I cheated a bit; I started making the new spencer yesterday and only finished today, but that counts, no?

The spencer in question has been on my to-do list for a long time, ever since I first laid my eyes on it. I'm talking of this delightful little number:

The Christie's auction house page states that it's from the 1790s, so a perfect companion to the white round gown I have!

I was really prudent and didn't buy any new material for this jacket; I took apart a pair of linen capris I had made some years ago (which I never wore anyway because wide-legged capris? I don't think so :P ). I really wanted to use the nice fabric for something, so luckily there was just enough for this little project. I used my standard Regency bodice pattern for the back and remodeled the front by using my drop-front gown pattern. Because I didn't have any extra material, I chose to make the sleeves elbow lenght, but that goes nicely with the period look anyway. I used the same sleeve pattern as for the black print jacket. The jacket is entirely hand-sewn and lined with white batiste.

The original spencer has nice trim around the hem and the neckline, so I might add some to mine as well.

All the pieces cut (except the sleeves)

1790s open robe

Yesterday I finished the 1790s open robe to go with the round gown I made. The robe was originally that of à la francaise variety, but having had it float around half finished for months on end, and no prospects of ever finishing it let alone wearing it, I decided to give it a new life. Lucky thing with the francaises is that they take up massive amounts of fabric, so I definitely had more than enough to go around.

I used the Janet Arnold pattern, only with slight tweaks in the back piece and slightly shorter train; I just don't hold with trains, they may look cool when you're standing indoors, but try walking around the streets and lawns and it's a mess. I have a little trainage though, just enough for the robe to look the part :) I still need to put some hooks and bars to close the robe in front and I might embroider the front edges, but for now, it's wearable.

So, the round gown, the open robe on top, teamed with long mitts and a shawl I knitted (the mitts inspired by similar ones from 1820-30 in V&A, and the shawl after an Estonian pattern), plus a "Marianne Dashwood" hat. And a book, since it was Jane Austen's birthday when I was taking the photos. Northanger Abbey accessorised the outfit perfectly :)

Trying on the whole "Marianne Dashwood at Delaford picnic" look

I really need to figure out the hair; 1790s look would call for a massive curly do,  so there's still some way to go to achieve that...

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Burgundy drop front dress

Today I finally finished a dress that has been lying around for quite some time. Before the Bath trip I found nice burgundy cotton with a black print pattern and I made a drop front gown out of it. Then I got distracted, had stuff to finish for Bath and... But now it's ready! I really like it, the hem has massive amount of fabric pleated, so it's maybe more of an early 19th century fashion than anything else. I used my basic bodice pattern, the same as for the white embroidered dress, but with drop front adjustments. I also found The Hungarican Chick's tutorial on bib front gowns(aka drop front gowns) very helpful. As always, everything is handsewn, and the fabric worked like a dream, it's stiff enough to hold its shape and pleats nicely, but so thin that pleating doesn't make the dress look bulky. I might add some ribbons to tie the cuffs a bit tighter, but I ran out of ribbon for now.

First, pin the front flaps closed...

Then tie the ribbons of the drop front bit. I chose to hide the knot/bow under the bib.

The ribbons cross at the back and pass through little loops that help hold the ribbons in place.

All pinned.

I love the hem!

I made me a "Marianne Dashwood" hat :)

Works with the bonnet too.

The pleats

Some posing with my harp.