maanantai 24. huhtikuuta 2017

1790s round gown and beaded bodice at the Spring Masquerade

My poor neglected blog! I've been busy with my dissertation and dance so I haven't done a lot of sewing lately, but just last Saturday I went to the 18th century Spring Masquerade again, arranged by L'Amusette in Tampere. Here's a couple of photos of me wearing the 1790s round gown and beaded bodice ensemble I made last autumn.

Photos by Sanna-Mari Karppinen & Nora Juusela

Sanna did the impossible and made me look pretty in the photos!

This was the easiest historical hairdo ever: I put my hair in pin curls wet, slept on it, travelled to the ball, took the pins out and poked at the curls a bit, wrapped the 2 scarves into a turban and added feathers. Thats it :)

Dancing "Gustavs Skål". I like our innovative hem tucking solutions. I pulled the train up under the bodice and out of its armscye on the right, worked like a dream.

lauantai 28. tammikuuta 2017

1910s blouse

I made a 1910s Armistice blouse because it's apparently a regulation item to have in any 1910s wardrobe. Granted, it is a bit later fashion than the roughly 1914 look I'm generally going for with my 1910s project, but I like the look and to me it epitomises the way that 1910s fashion developed to a more casual and usable direction.

I found nice buttercream linen in my stash, just enough for a blouse like this.

I didn't use a specific pattern though I worked on the basis of the Folkwear Armistice blouse pictures and reviews. I used my own plain bodice and sleeve pattern, lenghtened the shoulders of the back piece to wrap over to the front as a yoke, gathered the front pieces to the shoulders and made a centre panel of a separate piece. The blouse is mostly handsewn and the side seams and the sleeves have French seams on the inside to keep the fabric from fraying. I made the centre panel pin tucks on the machine. The buttons on the front are decorative because I can slip the blouse on over my head. I hate making buttonholes, so that's a plus. I pleated the back piece of the blouse loosely and sewed a ribbon on top to help with the gathering of the hem.

I'll take more pictures of it on me and with a skirt once I've made one, but for now this has to do.

perjantai 13. tammikuuta 2017

1910s project

I have something new to share at last! I've started a 1910s project partly because I've been planning that for a long time and partly because this year is the centenary of independence in Finland and I wanted to do something costumey for it. I even put together a loose outline of a sewing challenge for my reenactor and costumer friends around here and I think we'll have an event or two around this theme later in the year. The basic idea of that challenge is to make some kind of outfit in the fashion of 1910s; everybody can choose the year they like best, for me it's turning out to be 1914.

So far I've been sewing the underthings, of course, and they're finally done. I made a shift, a corset, a petticoat and a corset cover.

The shift is a simple shape, with a lace yoke and straps, a drawstring at the waist and a gusset flap that buttons on the front and back hem between the legs. I modelled it after this and other similar 1910s examples:
I've since changed the ribbon to a blue one.

The flap.

I made the corset using the 1910s pattern provided by Jennifer of Festive Attyre. I found her instructions very thorough and useful though I could've chosen a better fabric and in retrospect the corset turned out a bit too big for me. But to take it apart is just too much for me after the super annoying sewing process (bad fabric choice, sewing machine playing up, nerves in frays, not good).

I still need to sew on the suspenders for stockings. And get the stockings. Maybe the suspenders pulling down on the stockings will help with the wrinkling of the corset hem.

There's also a strange pokey edge at the back where the centre back bones end.

See? A wrinkly mess. Meh.
Because I've narrowed my wardrobe choices roughly on 1914, I needed a relatively narrow petticoat which I modelled after this advertisement picture from 1914. The skirt is narrow at the hips and there is a box pleated hem flounce that starts at knee-height.
I might have to sew one more horizontal tuck above the knee to shorten the petticoat a little more.

Lastly, I made a little corset cover blouse. Many such blouses of the era seem to have been loose-fitting and baggy at the bodice, with a drawstring at the waist but somehow that didn't work for me. Also, I'm cheating a little: I'm wearing a modern bra under my shift in these photos. Going without just felt too emancipated and uncomfortable and I wasn't able to tuck the shift into my corset securely enough to support the bust (as they apparently did in 1914). I might make a 1914 version of a brassiere later if I feel like it.

Next up will be a walking suit. I'm fascinated by the baggy skirt fashion of 1910s and will try to produce something similar. I also have a vintage saree set aside for an evening dress.
For inspiration I've compiled a couple of pinboards of 1910s fashion and 1910s underwear .

torstai 13. lokakuuta 2016

1790s round gown and beaded bodice

It's been a long time, sorry! I've done some sewing, but haven't got around taking photos. Today I took the trouble to dress up in a 1790s dress and bodice I finished recently, and I'm rather pleased with the look.
For the gown I used the Tidens Toj pattern for a 1790s round gown. I originally cut the hem a bit too short so I had to add a strip of fabric on it to remedy that blunder. I ended up turning that strip of fabric double and actually I rather like the way it looks and gives the hem a little bit of weight and body.
The fabric is this lovely very lightweight and almost see-through silk-viscose blend that I've used for chemisettes earlier but I always knew I wanted to make a Regency gown out of it as well.

The beaded bodice is a Regency era acessory that seemed to be popular in the early years 1800s; there are several fashion plates depicting different variations. The beading pattern I chose to make may not be exactly period but I like it anyway.

The hem is massive, there's all together 3 widths of the fabric in it.

I'll probably make a bit more of an effort with my hair for an event, but this isn't half bad for late 1790s. I have most of my hair up in a bun under the turban, and I quickly curled the fringe I left out of the bun all around my head. For an event I'd put my hair in pin curls when wet the night before, sleep on it and then do something like this with a scarf.

You've got a have a massive feather. No excuses.

I've got a train!

keskiviikko 10. elokuuta 2016

Gustavian Day picnic - 2nd edition

Rococo Atelier: So, should we have the Gustavian Day picnic this year as well?
Me: Sure, why not.

The Museum of Old Vaasa: Yay, come on over, we'll throw in a free entry day just because! And guided tours in two languages! And we'll write a press release with pictures and publish it in the local paper!

This really is how it went. The weather was worse than the last time (fairly rainy throughout the day) but we had our picnic indoors and still managed to do a bit of croqueting and graces and dancing in between the showers of rain. So many of our reenactor friends travelled over from Tampere and even accross the water from Sweden(!!)  and we had a jolly old time.

Some pictures here, taken by Sanna of Rococo Atelier and Mia of Oh Gloomy Sundays

The house

If you decide to have a picnic but then it rains and you have to move the picnic indoors and eat at a table is it still a picnic?


The ground floor of the house has this spectacular vaulted cellar.

Croquet with style

Mia in her pretty pink jacket and petticoat

There was a little dancing too.

Sanna borrowed my new blue hat and chemisette.

Pretending to play an antique clavier (the maker's engraving says it was built in 1797 in St. Petersburg).


Regency wedgies

A group photo of all of the properly attired people